Mary-Est-En-France

Day 3 – June 18, 2019

Paris

I started my day later than intended at 9 am. My quest for the day was to find the correct archival site and to read my documents. I found breakfast at the FranPrix down the street and picked up a fruit salade from the boulangerie before trecking to the Metro. Despite the relatively simple directions to the archives and the previous day’s experience, I wandered off path discovering a beautiful glace covered shopping center very similar to Nichols Arcade in Ann Arbor.

I arrived at last to the Richelieu site around 11am, locked my things away in the “locker room,” and then headed up the elevator with my research materials in the clear box bag required onsite. I was turned away by a stern archivist in the dance department before being directed to the manuscript department. All my materials were on microfilm (different from microfiche, who knew?) so I got to use a huge machine that magnified the image. I looked at letters from Catherine de Medici, Henri II, Charles IX, and members of their households. While some of the documents were clear, others looked as though they has been smeared with ashes.

That afternoon, Jillian arrived. From the archives we traveled across Paris to Sacré Coeur. We had to climb to the top of the hill in Montmartre to reach it. The church soars into the sky, incredibly detailed. We had an opportunity to explore inside and were treated to gorgeous stained glass windows. Before leaving the church we climbed up to the dome for $7. It was roughly 300 steps, but we were able to see the entire span of Paris on the horizon.

We left the church for the Place des Abbesses, but were disappointed to find it was little more than a neighborhood park. We decided to walk further towards the Moulin Rouge. The club is in the heart of an energetically sex-positive district. It was fun to see the iconic structure, but we didn’t stick around for a show.

Instead, we continued down the street to the Montmartre cemetery which is the resting place of many famous artists. My personal favorites were Émile Zola, De Gas, and Foucault. Graves in the cemetery reminded me of those from the swampy regions in the south of the US. Many were raised, some contained stained glass, others were built to resemble churches.

We had our first dinner together after leaving the cemetery at a diner nearby. I had roast duck and Jillian had chicken. After eating we returned home using the metro.

Day 2 – June 17, 2019

Paris

I woke up, showered (French showers are tiny?!), and had an avocado for breakfast. My goal for the day was to see the Musée de Cluny and to complete my archival work for my thesis. It did not pan out the way I expected to say the least.

I got to the Musée de Cluny around 11 am. Tucked away near the Sorbonne, it was adorable. I got to use my museum pass for the first time, which was much easier than expected. I saw exhibits about treasures of the Middle Ages, the fives senses, and I got to see a series of tapestries with unicorns that represented each of the five senses (and perhaps a mysterious sixth). I finished around 1pm and felt hungry, so I walked across the street to the Monoprix for lunch. I grabbed a sandwich and a raspberry pudding, which I ate in the gardens behind the museum. I grabbed an iced coffee from Starbucks and went on my way to the RER C so I could get to the François-Mitterand archives as they opened at 2 pm.

I arrived a little late, but was part of the rush of researchers into the facility. It was really exciting to be part of the crowd, as it made me feel like a real researcher. I happened to be first in line for the accreditation. This is a process where you sit down to discuss what documents you’d like to see and what you’re working on with a member of the archival staff. I encountered my first difficulty when the man behind the desk told me he doubted my documents were available on site. I was sent to another desk where another staffer told me that I had arrived at the wrong BnF. Apparently, there are several branches that hold different types of documents. All of my documents were manuscripts, held across town at the Richelieu-Louvois site. The staffer rejected my request for a day of research, instead giving me a free full-week pass and a year-long pass to the reading room at the facility. He directed me to the other site and I was on my way.

The metro was a straight shot, but upon leaving the metro I noticed that the Opéra house was down the street. I decided a slight movement off path wouldn’t hurt and wandered ahead to take some photos. Down the street, I saw the Place de Vendôme and marched there for some photos. However, upon my arrival I realized that I had taken myself further off path than intended. It would be a 20 minute walk to the archives.

I managed to get myself turned around yet again. I couldn’t seem to locate the archives. I found a garden, consulted my map, refilled my water bottle and headed off. Finally, I arrived. Unfortunately, it was now 4 pm. The archives closed at 6 pm and I was informed there would be no time to pull my documents before closing. The staffer gave me a brief tour of the lockers (no pens or bags allowed inside the reading room) and I let myself out.

Knowing most sites would be closing around 6/7pm, I located the nearest site of interest and made my way there. It happened to be Les Invalides. Originally a military hospital, the site houses the tomb of Napoleon and a military museum today. I explored the tomb and was amazed by its massive size. When I finished gawking, I explored the open square and made my way to the military museum. I only was able to see a room full of swords, armor, and muskets before it was time to go. I was really happy to see the armor of Henry III, Charles IX, and François I as they are part of my favorite Valois family. I couldn’t believe how small they all were (with the exception of François, whose armor towered over me).

I went back to the AirBnb using the metro, picked up some veggies and bread from local stores, and finished the day.

Day 1 – June 16, 2019

DTW- CDG – Paris

Started the trip off at DTW. Security went smoothly, the family waited for me to get through and sent me off. I immediately realized that I had forgotten to print a picture of myself for my metro pass -whoops!- so I scoured the airport for a business center that might have a printer. No luck. I had dry chicken for dinner and sat down to wait for boarding. I was almost immediately surrounded by a swarm of Blue Lakers (there were over 70 of them)heading out for their international voyage. We boarded the plane together, one student Nevada, was my seat partner.

Arrived at CDG following a night of restless sleep. Exited the plane after a half hour delay. Throughout the airport guides were scattered to help lost passengers like myself navigate the maze. I had my first opportunity to weave my way through a French conversation with a woman who was kind enough to get me to customs. I bought my museum pass, picked up my RER B pass, and proceeded into the city.

Had my first solo experience with large city public transport and it actually went smoothly. I made it to my Airbnb, got shown around, and promptly passed out for an hour long nap.

My goal for the afternoon was to see Louis-Lépine Marché aux Fleurs et Oiseaux. Unfortunately, I am a terrible navigator. I found my way there by 6:45 pm and most of the shops were closed for the night. I was able to see a few stands and they were gorgeous, simply bursting with flowers of every type. I had very little on my wish list for the evening, so I set out following the river. I glimpsed Notre Dame and stumbled upon a fountain at Place Joachim-du-Bellay at the Forum des Halles. I loved the bridges that spread across the river, each one was different. Some were adorned in snarling faces, others were clearly much more modern. I saw the Académie Française and finally ran into the Louvre. I had been there before and thought I had seen enough, but walking along the building on the sidewalk I was able to see mazes of bees, lions, and other statues on its walls much more clearly. I wound my way toward the glass pyramids nestled inside and paused to take photos. From there I explored the gardens, which were slowly emptying as the cafés closed for the night.

As I exited the gardens I was stopped by an older man, who asked if I knew how to find Vendôme. I laughed and said that it was my first day in Paris and that I was also lost. We chatted for about 15 minutes. Discussing our hometowns, my study abroad program, les banlieues where he lived, and my research. We introduced ourselves at the end of the conversation, Jean-Claude waving as we parted ways searching for our destinations.

I realized I hadn’t eaten anything that day. On my walk home I stopped at Julia’s Pizza, ordered, and waited on the street watching a band of English boys do skateboard tricks. I ate the entire pizza when I got back to my room.