Mary-Est-En-France

Grenoble, Vercors

We left Grenoble at 9am to head into the mountains near the city. Professors gave us the ominous warning that at least one person each year vomits on the way up the mountain. The roads curved back and forth on themselves. I was shocked to see bikers making their way up the slope beside our gigantic tour bus and the line of cars piling up behind us.

Our first stop was in Lans-En-Vercors at a small family farm. We were greeted by an adorably sweet herding dog named Mia. She wagged her tail and rolled over when we petted her. The farmer led us into the barn nearby and we got to meet the goats that produced milk for cheese sold on the farm. Brenna met the barn cat and they made a quick friendship. At the other end of the barn we met a group of cows. They were set differently than American cows. I noticed they were a lot less bulky and tall. The farmer said he only bought cows that ate the local grass and those that could survive the harsh winter. He purchased on stud from America, but the rest were from Europe. We angered the stud when we started petting the newly born calf (just three days old!). He mooed so loudly it was menacing.

We left the barn to explore the pastures down the way. We came upon a clear that looked exactly like the Sound of Music. It was breath taking. Further down, we got to see a herd of larger goats with tinkling bells around their necks. I thought that would be all, but the farmer whistled sharply. Moments later, two gorgeous horses emerged from the pine forest next to the pasture. It was like a moment out of a fairy tail. Their hair blew in the wind and they walked directly towards me, automatically nuzzling me. My heart melted. The brown princess was named Roxanne, but I did not catch the other’s name.

Following picture time with the horses, we were led back to the main house where we were led in groups into the cheese production center. We learned that they produced “fromage cru” on the farm, which essentially means that they don’t pasteurize the milk used in the cheese. The farmer told us that lactose intolerance has lower incidence in France because fromage cru is eaten there more frequently than in the United States, so people develop an immunity to bacteria and digest lactose more easily. As we waited for each group to go, we got to play fetch with Mia. It was a ball. She loved chasing her tennis ball, but was equally devoted to sticks that Roy threw. Before we left for the day, we had a chance to try some cheese. I actually thought it was pretty good. It was spongey and had an interesting flavor.

We drove up the road for lunch were we stopped for a picnic. I had been in a rush that morning so I grabbed what I could from Carrefour. I had crackers, a hunk of cheese, and 3 pain au chocolats. Not the healthiest, but c’est la vie.

Our main attraction for the day were “les Grottes” which roughly translates to caverns. We hiked up the mountain and waited in line before entering. Some students made a game of catching water falling from the mountain in their mouths. We finally we into the caves, following a long pathway going down, down, down. The floor and walls were wet with moisture. The visit could only have been able an hour, but we were treated to a massive line of caverns with lakes inside. There were rushing waterfalls, stalagmites, and stalactites. At one point, we walked up a set of stairs completely in the dark before a strange light show started. We exited the cave after seeing some of the cave dwelling animals and headed back to the bus.

We had some remaining time with the driver so the program coordinator had him take us to a small village where there was a river to swim. None of us brought our bathing suits, so we just stood in the cool water and watched people dive in from the cliffs.

That night for dinner Gilbert made us some delicious green beans with butter and fresh lemon. We had a small bit of cheese for dessert and then a fruit cup.

After dinner I headed out to meet everyone at Tord Barreau, a local wine bar. Jillian and I weren’t sure what we would want to drink, so we decided to split the bottles of wine. We got raspberry and blackberry. We also helped Brenna with her peach vodka smoothie. It was a great atmosphere. All of the UM kids were coming together to dance and get to know each other better. When we moved on to the dancing bar later that evening, I was eating some cookies I had saved in my purse for that evening. The bouncer at the club told me “bon appetit” when he saw me and nodded his head. I offered him one, but he laughed and said no.

We danced for a while before Jillian and I left to take Brenna home. Once Brenna got off the tram safely, Jillian and I headed to her house. I had agreed to stay with her because her host parents were gone and she felt anxious being in the empty house alone with no dogs. I got to meet her adorable host-cat, Petit-chat.

Grenoble

I walked into the grammar class to be greeted by 6 other students. I discovered that half the class had gotten an email over night to move to another class, created after people had demanded to move the day before. The new class would be a level higher, B2. I didn’t understand why I hadn’t been moved, until the professor told me that I wasn’t supposed to be in her class. I had been moved to B2+. I was thrilled. I headed upstairs to where they were doing a listening lab. It was on the subject of wild life in the praire and the negative effects of pesticides. I was shocked to discover it was a recording of a real news story. It was actually challenging! I was thrilled. It turns out that the B2+ class has a new theme each week, new vocabulary to learn, and only listens to real news reports for listening so they can understand how native speakers work.

In our culture class we talked about recent scandals concerning laïcité in France. I presented on the Charlie Hebdo affaire, while other talked about burkinis, etc.

Class was finally over for the week. I felt like I had survived the impossible. I never had an 8:30am class before in my college career. Despite feeling exhausted and a little sick, I went out to lunch with another group of students to celebrate. We went to a small Italian restaurant, where I got lasagna (not as good as in Annecy). It was great to sit and chat, but I was so thankful to get home and take the longest nap of my life.

I spent the evening relaxing watching TV and calling my friends on the phone.

Grenoble

After speaking with Ryan and Miranda (our program coordinator) at the get together the previous day, I decided I needed to change grammar classes. At the end of my grammar course, myself and several other students from UM asked if we could be moved to a higher level. The professor told us that we all needed to be moved up, but that they would not have a place to move students until Monday because there were not enough professors to handle the number of students. This was frustrating to me, as I felt like a summer program we are paying for should have planned the number of professors in advance.

In our French culture class we discussed the structure of French politics and laïcité. Laïcité is essentially the French version of the separation of church and state. It means that in public buildings like schools or government offices, there can be no religious symbolism. There is no discussion of religion or religious values by politicians. There is no discussion of religion when introducing bills in the government. While some of the ideas I do find to be appealing, the forbidden nature of the hijab for Muslim women is something that I find to be wrong. Women should have the ability to choose whether or not they wish to cover themselves. It was interesting listen to students and the professor engage in a debate, as values in our cultures seem to be switched. In the US, we are very centered on individualism. In France on the other hand, society focuses on the condition of the whole group over the individual.

After class, a group went out to find a coffee shop for our homework. We were lucky to find one near my place! It was called Coffee and Go. It was humorously Americanized. There were lattes, iced drinks, bubble tea, and candy bars. The decor was American and there was wifi. We did our homework for a while before getting derailed in other conversations. We were discussing our host families when one girl mentioned that her host brother said he was scared to come to the US because he didn’t want to be shot and killed. She was saying how sad she was to hear it, when we all realized that we had our own brush with gun violence. A few months ago there was a campus lockdown over a report that said there were two armed gunmen on campus in a classroom building. We all knew someone who was on campus, or we were there ourselves. I recalled running through the diag, shielding my body with my backpack as people screamed at me to get down. I just wanted to get home. I remembered my dear friend calling from inside the library, telling me she loved me one last time in case she was shot and killed that day. We all sat in silence for a moment after telling our stories. It was good to get them out, but sad that we had to. We all agreed it was time to pack up and go home.

That night we all made plans to meet the French students around 8:30 pm to celebrate America’s independence day. They ended up being a half an hour late, but that gave us time to come into town from dinner with our host families. We decided our group was too big for a bar, so Méline (a French student) decided we would go drinking in the park. Apparently, drinking in public is completely fine in France. We walked to the local gardens and sat down in a massive circle. Part of the group eventually came back with bottles of Coke, tea, and vodka. We made mixed drinks and played the French version of “never have a I ever,” which essentially means you drink whenever you’ve done something that another participant announces they haven’t done. Eventually the groups got smaller as the night got later. I talked with a woman named Fardoti, whose family is from Mali. She left them to live in France with a boyfriend, but they had split up in January of this year leaving her all alone. She started taking classes and learning English. She seemed incredibly brave to me. We showed each other pictures of our families and talked about our home towns. Later, I talked with some other girls about politics in France. While they wanted to practice their English, they couldn’t hold a conversation. As it approached midnight, the UM students got ready to go home. Classes started early the next day and most people had a 30 minute bus ride (I had a 5 minute walk). We hugged all the students and did the customary bizous (kisses on the side of the cheeks) and left for home. It was a fun night.

Grenoble

The third day of CUEF classes, phew! We spent class discussing the article we had read for homework the night before. It concerned the nature of media consumption.

Following our CUEF classes, the UM students met up and walked with our professors to a nearby technical schools for students who were working to become “office managers.” These were all students roughly our age who had graduated high school and were participating in a work-study program for the next two years. They all were learning English. We broke into groups of three and the American students sat across from 3 French students. For about 20 minutes we would discuss one subject, before moving on to discuss another at a different table with another group. We got to talk about the environment, stereotypes held by each group about the other, television, work environments, and accents. It was an interesting experience and pretty eye opening. The French students struggled to communicate in English, but I was proud that my group was about to hold our own in French for the entire period. We had one really uncomfortable moment at the movie table. We asked the students for a film suggestion and the French boy suggested a comedy. All of us wanted to know more so he gave us the name. We asked for a small summary and he said “it’s a movie about slavery, it’s super funny.” My group looked at each other with mouths open, as one of our group members was African American. She asked the boy if he thought slavery was funny, to which he replied that this film certainly was. It went completely over his head that what he had said was insensitive and offensive. Following our encounter with the group, we all went outside for small treats and unstructured conversation. The second they stepped outside the door, all the French students whipped out their cigarettes and started smoking. It was bizarre. We collected each other’s snapchat information so we could meet up later in the week for a drink or a small get together.

Grenoble

Our second CUEF day started at 8:30am. Our grammar class moved to the “lab.” We did listening and speaking exercises that would help us be placed at the appropriate level. It was confusing as to what we were supposed to be doing, as none of us had ever done a lab before and the professor started the lesson without any form of instruction. We moved down the hall to the classroom and corrected the lab for the rest of our 2 hour class period.

The culture class continued to be mostly dull. We discussed facts about French geography and the religious makeup of the country. The professor struggled the entire hour, trying to get a video to play on her laptop that was not compatible with the university’s technology.

We ate a quick lunch before heading to our UM courses. We covered linguistic differences throughout France and the history of accents. We researched what area in the US our accents came from and the computer narrowed it down to Michigan. We all got so caught up in the lesson that Ryan forgot to give us our quiz. We postponed until Thursday.

After class I went out to the local cat café with Brenna, Jillian, and Hannah. It was so cute! I had never been to one before and this made my day. There were a bunch of cute cats you could pet and the drinks were delicious.

Grenoble

Our first day at the local university started bright and early. We met on campus at 9:30am for a campus tour and orientation session. Forget what you know about orientations and tours, it doesn’t apply here. The orientation was roughly 35 minutes on the top floor of the un- air conditioned building, facing directly into the rising sun. It had to be over 90 degrees in the room and there was not a single fan in sight, expect of course the paper one provided in our orientation packet. We listened to three consecutive people mumble at the front of the room in voices so low it was impossible for anyone to truly understand what they were saying except the front row.

We were unceremoniously dismissed and walked downstairs for a campus tour. The guide refused to raise his voice and did a terrible job competing with the unending parade of lawn mowers (read: tractors) that rolled by. He wandered past buildings, stopping only occasionally to point something out. I think he intentionally tried to stop out of the shade, but I can’t be sure. About half way through the uninformative walk, my friends and I ducked away to have lunch before our classes started later that afternoon.

I had been placed in the B1/B2 class. It was meant to bridge the gap between the two language levels, but clearly did not function that way. I learned that French professors function very differently from American professors. They tend to explain nothing and let students wander blinding through tasks, truly trial by fire in the heat of the afternoon. I was shocked by how lax the class was. People spoke in English during the session and we discussed only simple tenses that any French student worth their salt should know. Myself and a few other UM students asked to be moved to a higher class, but were told to wait a few days to see how the course progressed.

It was also our first day in our Culture and Civilisation class. I was disappointed because I expected there to be a more intense discussion of French culture, but was met with only trivia questions.

In general, I was surprised the the University of Grenoble Alpes campus. It is supposed to be one of the most beautiful in France, but I thought it looked run down and badly looked after. Most of the grounds were not taken care of, walls lacked paint, plaster was cracked, there were water stains, and an entire section of one the buildings had been damaged by a large fire but remained unrepaired.

That night was our first storm in Grenoble. I thought it was extremely beautiful. I felt like I was in a romance novel as the rain drops hit my window panes and thunder crashed outside.

Grenoble

Waking up for Monday morning classes is proving to be difficult. Today I skipped breakfast and made it to class early. It was my first day in my new grammar class. I think the professor for this group is a lot more prepared. The students seem more passionate about the French language and all speak really well. I think it will be a good chance for me to improve my language skills.

My second class of the day is French Culture and Civilization. I thought this class would be really interesting, but alas, it remains dry as a communion wafer. The professor is sweet, but the class is essentially just two hours of trivia on France. Anything we discuss could be googled instantly. Today we went over French holidays. It was difficult to stay away and attentive.

Class finished at 12:30, so Jillian and I went over to the French Coffee Shop to do some work. On the tram we encountered a man who was very obviously on drugs, so we hopped off a few stops early and walked the rest of the way. I got a vanilla milkshake and cinnamon roll while Jillian got a frozen latte and a muffin. We enjoyed the air conditioning while we finished our work.

I headed across the street to my house around 2pm to get ready for my interview with Michael. We discussed my honors thesis for the History Department newsletter before chatting about our summer experiences. I did homework for the rest of the afternoon and prepared for my quiz the next day.

For dinner we started with a fresh tomato and mozzarella salad. There was drizzle of vinegar and oil on top. For the main plate we had pasta with a white sauce and salmon inside. Our dessert was a simple pear compote. We talked about the differences between the US and France in the education systems. Noting the expenses involved in the American system and the length that both programs required.

After dinner I took a run along the river. The breeze was cool and refreshing. I enjoyed listening to the news while I went. I got to see new neighborhoods up river from me and discovered several new parks I am excited to visit.

Grenoble

Started the day off with Jillian at her place on the edge of the city. We managed to wake up at 7am. Petit-chat (“little cat”) came in to say hello and we walked downstairs together for breakfast. We had coffee, fruit, bread, and jam at the table.

Off we went to the Centre-Ville for homework at the French Coffee Shop. We got an adorable table out front where we could sit in the shade. Today had the best weather we had experienced so far. There was a gentle breeze and temps only reached 85.

After studying and chatting for a few hours we went across the street to my place. I took a nap while Jillian studied. We realized around 3pm that we were ready for lunch, so we wandered outside. To our dismay, absolutely nothing was open. Most diners said they would reopen for the evening meal at 8:30pm. Monoprix was shuttered, Carrefour was closed, and even ChickenWay left us out in the mild heat. Desperate for a meal, we wandered the streets until we came upon a New York style burger restaurant. Both of us were craving a burger and fries, so it was perfect. We topped off our lunch with ice cream from the vendor next door.

By 4:30, it was time to meet the other UM students at Shakesbeer for the FIFA World Cup Finals. We were all excited to see the US women play the Netherlands. About 8 UM students gathered in a small booth, while the rest of the bar was full of students from North Carolina and Utah. While the first half of the game proved to be mildly dull, the second half was fast paced and exciting. We got the see the women score 3 goals and win gold for the 4th time. The bar exploded into cheers.

After the game, I was able to make it home for dinner. We had a salad, grilled ham and cheese, and a wonderful fruit salad. It had oranges, kiwi, apples, peaches, and mint.

Grenoble, Annecy

This was a great day! We got cheap tickets for a bus trip to Annecy online. We left early in the morning, arriving at noon. A small group of UM students decided that we’d like to eat lunch before going to the beach. We stopped at a small Italian restaurant near the river. I ordered the lasagna and it was delicious. For dessert I got a raspberry tart.

From lunch we walked along the river to the beach. It had to be the clearest water I’ve seen in my life. Swans and ducks swam in small protected areas. We arrived at the beach and it was like a scene out of a movie. The water was crystal clear, mountains rose up in the background, and puffy white clouds floated overheard. Stepping into the water was like the first breath of fresh air I’ve had since I was in Michigan. It was the perfect temperature. So refreshing! Even though the beach was crowded there was plenty of room to swim out and around wherever you wanted. I thought the beach was a little strange. Older men walked around in speedos and every woman wore a bikini. We did see some topless women on the nearby private beach. (Strongly do not recommend the bathrooms. There are no toilet seat or toilet paper. Best of luck!) C’est la vie??

After the most refreshing swim of my life, we headed back into town to try some ice cream. The TripAdvisor certified 9th best ice cream shop in France was around the block, so we made sure to stop by. It was amazing! Buy two scoops get one baby one free. I got raspberry, strawberry, and coffee. I love the sizes here, I can actually finish a cone and not feel sick.

After ice cream the group split up. Some went shopping around town, but I stopped with a few others to grab a quick drink before our 2 hour bus ride back to Grenoble. I got a hard cider at a café overlooking a small river island.

When I arrived home Gilbert had a plate waiting for me. It was absolutely delicious. There was rice, sausage, cheese, bread, and sauce. So filling, so refreshing after a long day.

Grenoble

Finally the weekend! During our first week in Grenoble we ate a ton of ice cream, had our intensive UM classes, and endured heat over 105 degrees.

On my first day off I decided to sleep in and explore the town. I had the usual bread and jam for breakfast, then left the house for the local museums. I chose to go to the museum of resistance and deportation. It covered Grenoble’s role in WWII resistance efforts and the overall scope of the war.

I happened to be completely alone in the museum, which was a really strange experience. It was a really modernized building, complete with sensors that triggered sound effects when you walked into a certain room. It was certainly an interesting experience. I was almost scared as I walked through. I would turn a corner only to hear voices behind me or a type writer in front of me. At one point, I got to the top of a set of stairs only to hear the stomping of heavy boots and gun shots. A wall to my left turned red with “blood” as silhouettes were shot one by one. My phone died on a fully charged battery right as I entered that room. I found that pictures of dead bodies and people who were killed were not contextualized as they would have been in the US. Plaques simply said “so and so, shot dead.” I found that the museum heavily glossed over the collaborationist nature of the Vichy regime, focusing instead on the resistance of individuals. While it is good to talk about resistance, I think they needed to have a lot more talking about the atrocities that the French government willingly committed on citizens of their own country.

Following the museum I went home for lunch and a nap. I went back out for a three mile walk before dinner. I saw some beautiful gardens. If there’s one thing the French can do right, it’s a planned garden.

After dinner I went out with other UM kids to the bar. The place we went had a wall full of homemade wines. There were flavors like peach, strawberry, raspberry, and more. We went to the same club as the week before to dance and ended the night.