Paris
I woke up, showered (French showers are tiny?!), and had an avocado for breakfast. My goal for the day was to see the Musée de Cluny and to complete my archival work for my thesis. It did not pan out the way I expected to say the least.
I got to the Musée de Cluny around 11 am. Tucked away near the Sorbonne, it was adorable. I got to use my museum pass for the first time, which was much easier than expected. I saw exhibits about treasures of the Middle Ages, the fives senses, and I got to see a series of tapestries with unicorns that represented each of the five senses (and perhaps a mysterious sixth). I finished around 1pm and felt hungry, so I walked across the street to the Monoprix for lunch. I grabbed a sandwich and a raspberry pudding, which I ate in the gardens behind the museum. I grabbed an iced coffee from Starbucks and went on my way to the RER C so I could get to the François-Mitterand archives as they opened at 2 pm.
I arrived a little late, but was part of the rush of researchers into the facility. It was really exciting to be part of the crowd, as it made me feel like a real researcher. I happened to be first in line for the accreditation. This is a process where you sit down to discuss what documents you’d like to see and what you’re working on with a member of the archival staff. I encountered my first difficulty when the man behind the desk told me he doubted my documents were available on site. I was sent to another desk where another staffer told me that I had arrived at the wrong BnF. Apparently, there are several branches that hold different types of documents. All of my documents were manuscripts, held across town at the Richelieu-Louvois site. The staffer rejected my request for a day of research, instead giving me a free full-week pass and a year-long pass to the reading room at the facility. He directed me to the other site and I was on my way.
The metro was a straight shot, but upon leaving the metro I noticed that the Opéra house was down the street. I decided a slight movement off path wouldn’t hurt and wandered ahead to take some photos. Down the street, I saw the Place de Vendôme and marched there for some photos. However, upon my arrival I realized that I had taken myself further off path than intended. It would be a 20 minute walk to the archives.
I managed to get myself turned around yet again. I couldn’t seem to locate the archives. I found a garden, consulted my map, refilled my water bottle and headed off. Finally, I arrived. Unfortunately, it was now 4 pm. The archives closed at 6 pm and I was informed there would be no time to pull my documents before closing. The staffer gave me a brief tour of the lockers (no pens or bags allowed inside the reading room) and I let myself out.
Knowing most sites would be closing around 6/7pm, I located the nearest site of interest and made my way there. It happened to be Les Invalides. Originally a military hospital, the site houses the tomb of Napoleon and a military museum today. I explored the tomb and was amazed by its massive size. When I finished gawking, I explored the open square and made my way to the military museum. I only was able to see a room full of swords, armor, and muskets before it was time to go. I was really happy to see the armor of Henry III, Charles IX, and François I as they are part of my favorite Valois family. I couldn’t believe how small they all were (with the exception of François, whose armor towered over me).
I went back to the AirBnb using the metro, picked up some veggies and bread from local stores, and finished the day.