Wednesday
We slept in late, knowing that it would be a relaxed travel day. The weather was bleak. The temperature hovered around 40 degrees and there was a steady drizzle of rain. We enjoyed coffee and clementines for breakfast. I stepped out on the balcony of the apartment and gazed at the mountain looming nearby. It was striking to see the diversity of plants growing on each side of the monolith.
We left the warmth of our little haven and headed into town. We cut through little side streets, attempting to reach the spire that we saw poking through the maze of rooftops. There were adorable local thrift shops and businesses on our way. We were struck by a sign we saw in one window, criticizing Macron (the French president). The response of his government to the pandemic and their measures surrounding confinement have been largely unpopular in France. Many label his call for respecting curfew and confinement to be hypocritical as long as he allows schools to stay open.
“Must work, must work, must work.”
“We’re not going to touch the gifts given to the rich.”
In the square just beyond the Parish Church, we found the Tourism Office (closed) and a WWII monument. I wish that I was able to get a better picture, but the rain and a construction gate really cramped my style.
Everything in the town was shuttered. It seemed like we were the only people there. It was almost eery. Alli wanted to pick up some souvenirs for family members, but I wasn’t sure would be able to find anything in this little ghost town! Then, as we rounded a corner, we ran right into a little man tending his shop. I really have to laugh, this was an incredibly European encounter. He turned to face us and immediately began trying to shill painted and non-painted statues of the Virgin Mary. Realizing that we spoke English, he started stating the prices in both English and French and repeating phrases that he had clearly memorized from years of working with tourists. He applied the pressure, telling us he would be closed soon for lunch and wouldn’t be open again the rest of the week. I didn’t want a statue or a bottle for some grotto water and didn’t believe a word he said about closing, but I needed some postcards anyway. I grabbed a few and handed over my 1.80 euro.
Escaping the little shop, we wandered aimlessly through the damp streets. We happened upon the house where St. Bernadette’s father lived in his later years. It was purchased by the parish, as St. Bernadette was a nun and had no money of her own to support her father.
Curious and wanting a better look at the structure, we followed the path downhill towards the base. We discovered that the family home that Bernedette grew up in was right around the next corner. It included a mill! Normally, you can take a tour through it. There was a little convent sitting next-door and I suspect that the nuns there operate the tours.
We finally noticed that a thin blue line was painted on the pavement. It indicated the “Trail of Jubilation,” likely used for a holy walk on the Feast Day. We decided that we might as well follow it and find all there was to see in the city.
The trail led us to a set of wonderful gates adorned with white statues. The grotto complex was huge! There was a straight path from the gates down to the basilica. Beside the massive church there was a building for confessions. Each door was for a different language.
After spending a fair amount of time admiring the artwork, we went back outside and decided to see the grotto. This is the spot where St. Bernadette saw the Virgin Mary. If you’re interested in reading more about the story, you can do so here.
We were cold, tired, and damp. There wasn’t much left to do near the basilica and there really weren’t any other sites to see for the day. All the shops were closed, so we couldn’t grab any souvenirs. We decided to grab food for the night and to turn in for the evening. A person at the Welcome Desk told us there would be a Mass the next day, so we compromised and said we’d make up the time from Wednesday early the next morning.
When we got back to the apartment, we all collapsed and took naps. Some of us watched a Zach Efron episode about his visit to Lourdes. It was neat! When all of us were finally awake again, we started work on dinner.
That evening we hunkered down to watch Pirates of the Caribbean and Mean Girls. It was a fun and relaxing night.
Mary-Est-En-France 