January 29, 2021

Friday

I was nervous all week long about Friday. I was excited to be traveling to Avignon, but felt a little concerned about meeting the other assistants. My anxious brain wondered if we would get along, if we would travel well together, and if they would want to see the same things as me. I stifled the nervous energy and left my house to start my trek across the country around 8:15 that morning.

I took the 1980 bus to Meyzieu, hopped on the ZI Tram to Lyon, and had about 30 minutes to wander about the train station before my train was assigned a platform. I have never had to locate a train platform on my own before, so I asked one of the orange-clad conductors to explain the system to me. He was really sweet and helped me out immediately. I forgot to bring a book with me on the trip, so I used my spare time to pick one up in the station’s bookstore. I grabbed two pain au chocolat before heading to the platform.

Walking up to the train platform in Gare Lyon Part-Dieu. Love the tiling.

The TGV pulled up in just a few minutes and I found a comfortable seat on the second floor. It was the perfect spot to stare out the window. My ride was roughly 2.5 hours long. I was very thankful that I wore two masks the entire ride, as many of the other passengers were lax about theirs. When the conductor came by to scan tickets, two men nearby declared they didn’t have any. They were fined 150 euros each and the conductor took their passports. Yikes!

We passed by a huge château!
Four smokestacks beside the river. The one on the far right has a child holding a cup of water on the side.
Dramatic cliffs. At the top of the central mount there was a large stone cross.
Beautiful bridge spanning across the river.
Gare Avignon Centre

I arrived in Avignon at roughly 13:00h. The sun was shining overhead and the air was warm. It was about 60 degrees. I walked out of the train station and immediately saw the famous wall that surrounds the historic inner city. Anxious to get out of the crowd and sit down for a snack, I wandered beyond the wall and along it until I found a place to sit down. I removed my masks and enjoyed my pain au chocolat in the shade of a beautiful Haussmann style building.

The Avignon walls as you leave the train station.
Centre des Finances Publiques.
Center of Public Finances.
The Avignon wall. I ate my pain au chocolat here with some pigeon friends.

I found my Airbnb, but had some time before I could check in. I wandered around the neighborhood until about 14:30. It was so cool to be out of the house and seeing new things for the first time since my arrival! I passed an adorable bookstore beside the river, I saw ornate sitting stones outside a row of stores, and I noticed some old churches.

Adorable bookstore on the river. The “Atelier des curiosités.”
The Chapelle des Pénitents Gris.
“Built on the site of the former Sainte-Croix Oratory, the many parts of this chapel come from different periods. The entrance vestibule with a panelled ceiling was built in 1631, the hexagonal room dates from the late 16th century, the vintners’ chapel was built in the 18th century, the Notre-Dame-de-Délivrance chapel dates from 1708-1709. The primary nave, called the “miracle nave”, rebuilt between 1816 and 1818 is where the liturgical services take place. 19th century stained glass windows.”

After dropping off my things, I wandered aimlessly throughout the city. I had a few hours before everyone was supposed to show up. I put in my airpods and started listening to the Jane Eyre audiobook.

The Couvent des Cordeliers.
The first structure on the site was completed in 1233 by the Cordeliers. There was new construction in the 1300s and increased the size of the church. Jean XXII and Clément VI were patrons of this work. Tombs of great Avignon families were places in the chapels. The cloister was reconstructed in the 1600s.
A beautiful door in the city.
A lovely little flower shop.
@legardenavignon on Instagram
Le Pubz. A bar downtown. This little street was full of bars and shops that would have been so fun to visit in normal times. I’d love to go back with things open up.
Graffiti on the door says, “A man without culture is like a zebra without it’s stripes.”
I’m not sure what this building is, but I am in love with the facade.
Les Halles. There’s a market inside!
You can buy seafood, cheeses, veggies, spices, and wines.
Tour Saint-Jean was home to the “Hospitaliers de Saint-Jean” of Jerusalem. The knights settled here before joining the Templars when their order was abolished.
I love Haussmann style buildings. I hope you do too!
This one sat next to an amazing church. I’ll show a picture of the doors later in this post and feature the interior on the Saturday post.
What can we see peeking above the rooftops?
Here’s the Palais des Papes or the Papal Palace.
The tower is shockingly tall! It reminded me of something from Lord of the Rings.
Construction on the palace started in 1335. It was finished in under 20 years. Benedict XII and Clement VI led the construction efforts. It holds the record for the largest Gothic palace in Europe!
A cat sitting near the Papal Palace- not very excited to make friends, but still cute. He disappeared the next day when there was some rain.
The side arm of the Papal Palace.
Le Palais de la Commune or the Palace of the Commune.
Originally constructed in 1129. The Commune remained in power until the 13th century.
Remember the Haussmann building from earlier? This is its neighbor the Basilique Saint-Pierre. It was built in the 7th century and then reconstructed in 1385. At the later date, canon buildings and the cloister were added. Pope Innocent VI insisted it be used as a “collegiate church.” The wonderful facade was completed in 1512. It has been an historic monument since 1840.
The Synagogue d’Avignon. The current building was built in the 18th century, replacing one from the 15th century. Jewish communities were exiled from France in 1394, so many Jewish families took refuge in the Comtat Venaissin which was an independent state controlled by the papacy. By the 15th century, they were restricted to a ghetto which closed each night.
The segregated neighborhoods were abolished during the first French Revolution in 1789.
Beautiful jungle mural on a backstreet.

I went back to the apartment for a bit to sit down and rest. I drank some water before heading back out into the street. I decided to explore around the edge of the wall. To exit, I took a little staircase underground and popped out on the other side. I was surprised to see an entirely different world sitting on the other side. A five line street surrounded the wall and huge, modern buildings decorated it.

The outer side of the Avignon wall.
The Tribunal Judiciaire.
Modern art outside the Tribunal.
The Vaucluse Prefecture.
Stairs outside the wall that lead to the Palais des Papes.
An opening in the Avignon wall. I noticed that the palais and wall are built into the cliffs.
The Saint-Bénézet Bridge. Construction on the bridge started in 1177 and finished in 1185. It was one of the only places were travelers could cross the river on foot rather than by boat. Trade routes were redirected through Avignon because of the ease of using the bridge.
A long stretch of the bridge was destroyed after the 1226 siege by King Louis VIII. The city did repair the bridge at that time, despite it being technically forbidden. Costs of maintaining the bridge became difficult to bear after a series of catastrophic floods in the 1600s. Relics were removed from the St. Nicolas Chapel in 1674 because of the threat of imminent collapse.
The broken bridge of Avignon.
The plaza in front of Notre Dame des Doms d’Avignon. First mentioned in written sources in 1037. The building that currently exists was built in the 12th century. Many elements were influenced by Roman architecture. The cathedral was enlarged in the Middle Ages.
The Palais des Papes.
Memorial to “our dead.” Devoted to both World Wars.
Side view of the Notre Dame des Doms d’Avignon.
Four crying angels surround Jesus on the cross. The Virgin Mary and Mary Magdalene stand at the base of the cross.
To enter the Notre Dame des Doms d’Avignon you must walk through a space that is like a huge wooden closet. Upon leaving that space, this small archway stands to the right. In the corner, there is a statue of St. John the Baptist. The ceiling is painted a deep blue with stars. You can see the remains of painted angels and trees on the far wall.
The alter of the church. Behind the alter, there are portraits of cardinals and former Popes.
The second alcove on the right hand side of the church is devoted to the Virgin Mary. On the left there is a statue devoted to Joseph. On the right is an unnamed religious figure.
It was an almost magical moment. I was alone in the church and could hear deep rhythmic chants. I made my way to the third alcove on the right of the church and realized that a trio of nuns were praying the rosary together in front of the Virgin.
I exited the cathedral as the sun was setting. Teens were playing music and dancing together in front of Jesus and the angels. I walked down the opposite side of the church into the main courtyard.
From the courtyard, I was able to see the entirety of the Palais des Papes. If you have reservations, you can enter through the center door and see the palace and the gardens beyond.
The Hôtel des Monnaies.
Constructed in 1619. It housed the police from 1790 to 1840. The mayor’s office occupied the building from 1846-1852. It currently is a “boutique-hôtel.”
Opéra Grand Avignon.
First built in 1824-25. The opening performance there was in 1825. The original building burned down in 1846 and was rebuilt the following year. It has been in operation since that time.
Hôtel de Ville.
Built between 1845 and 1856 around the Tower of Jacquemart. It is the last vestige of Cardinal Albano’s livery.
Église Saint-Agricol.
Established in the 7th century by St. Agricol. Became a collégiale church in 1321 at the hand of Jean XXII. Classified as a historic monument in 1980.
I walked in to take a look around inside and realized I’d arrived just as the church service started. I had to scoot back outside in a hurry.
Musée Calvet.
The main museum of Avignon. Collections are are divided between two buildings. They include goldwork, tapestries, ironwork, and porcelain.
Walking onto the main street of the inner city, I saw my first Pride symbol in France. Woo!
This week there were manifestations in Paris for Gay Rights.
Musée Lapidaire. A museum housed within a 17th century church. It contains Greek, Roman, and Etruscan sculptures, vases, and glass.

On my way to the Airbnb for the night before curfew started, I stopped for a slice of pizza and ate across the street.
Église du Couvent des Célestins.
Built in 1395 by Clément VII and Charles VI of France. It is near the tomb of Pierre de Luxembourg. There are numerous religious relics inside. It is the only royal building within the city walls. It was once the most sumptuous church in the city.
Église du Couvent des Célestins.
I stopped across the street to pick up wine for the night.
Église du Couvent des Célestins. Beautiful artwork above the door.

I got back to the Airbnb and waited about 30 minutes for the other assistants to show up. They brought burgers and sodas with them for us to eat for dinner. We chatted and got to know each other. It was really great to speak English with people and to have them understand. The girls were from Ohio, Nebraska, and Kentucky. I’m excited to learn more about them and their states! We made a plan for what we’d like to see the next day and went to bed pretty late. It was so fun getting to chat with them.

They Iced me!

Published by maryisinfrance

Hello! This is my study abroad documentation. Please enjoy my adventures.

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